The Rabbit-sister appears occasionally in our reports, and her discerning palate has dissed the molten chocolate cake at Mistura and condemned 93 Harbord for serving “Master’s Choice” teas, but last week we were faced with the special challenge of choosing an appropriate resto for the Rabbit-Sister to introduce us to the new Mr. Sister. Procrastination put a few limits on our choices, but we were fortunate to secure an 8:30 reservation for Globe Bistro on a Saturday night….

We were greeted warmly by Globe staff and shown to a booth in the upstairs mezzanine. I had requested such seating on our Open Table reservation and was pleased to be informed that they could honour this request when the staff hostess confirmed our reservation the previous day. We really liked the room, where subdued shades combined with dramatic and pretty accents for a stylish but not trying-too-hard environment. The room is long and narrow, and downstairs banquettes are quite close together, so I would recommend requesting tables at the mezzanine level for those concerned with a bit more privacy (and a great view of downstairs diners and their plates).

We warmed up with a bottle of cava, and some good sourdough bread while waited for two shared appetizers. In the interim, we were amused by some smoked fish on crackers - not bad!

The Dungeness crab appetizer presented as savory, round Napoleon of apple layered with generous chunks of crab and BC buffalo mozzarella, plated with a small salad of frisee and oranges. I enjoyed that this dish had a certain levity I find appropriate to a starter.

The “beef tongue ‘n cheek” saw thin slices of tongue layered under shreds of cheek. The ice wine grape offered a nice chutney-ish accompaniment, and the crispy sweet potato micro-frites added a good bit of texture. The Rabbit-sister went to town on the tongue, but I preferred the milder (but still tastey-y) flavour of the crap app. 

Rabbitz looove doubt-dating because we get to sample so many dishes and Mr. Sister didn’t even blink when we started picking like vultures from his plate. Mr. Sister’s Cumbrae rib-eye was notably delicious. The beef was perfectly cooked, alongside addictive beefsteak fries elevated by a sprinkling of parmesan and some great braised red cabbage.

Rabbit’s lamb shank was extremely tender and came plated with a lovely stew of root vegetables and candied cashews in a dark gravy. The cashews were particularly excellent, and I wish I could have taken home a box for nibbling.

Mr. Rabbit was bullied into ordering the duck (he also wanted lamb shank), but his bird proved a surprising hit (I’d rate the beef and duck #1 and #2). Slices of magret of duck breast presented alongside a few tasty rounds of sausage avec sides of artichoke and green beans. This dish was well enhanced with a blueberry and juniper sauce.

Finally, the “nose to tail suckling pig” was a fatty, dark and rich section of pork served with several slices of brawn, a pork head-cheese. Braised fennel was a nice complement to this dish.  This pork was a bit heavy for my taste, but the eater of said entrée was happy with her choice.  All mains were hearty and satisfying, and those with concerns about being left hungry at “fancy” restaurants should not fear the Globe.

Finally, we finished with two desserts. Unfortunately, the pumpkin bavarois was a disappoint. The menu-described ginger funnel cake was a mere few strands of thin, almost-crunchy fried dough ( I was expected a more CNE/IHOP waffle-ish presentation). The pumpkin mousse had a nice, subtle flavour, but the “black pepper buttermilk” ice cream was pleasantly unremarkable, and the molasses garnish was visually attractive and clever at the expense of being genuinely delicious.

The Niagara apple pudding was luscious enough to compensate for the funnel’s failings. The cake was moist and pudding-y (I’m saying that it wasn’t just a cake, it was a pudding!), and the ice cream had a nice bit of texture and crunch thanks to some toffee. The screech rum sauce was not too boozy and the dessert had a suitably, autumnal feel.

With dessert, we sampled calvados, port, a remarkably good white port,  and one “charity” cocktail — the Globe’s rendition of the classic kir royale, punched up with a bit of hibiscus syrup and an edible flower. This cocktail was very sweet, and would probably have been better before dinner.

Service throughout our evening was remarkable. Our server was affable, knowledgeable, honest and straightforward in his counsel and recommendations. Our welcome and send-off made us feel like dignitaries.

At Globe, ingredients are seasonal and local. The kitchen is creative and not afraid to take risks - most of which pay off. Finally, Mr. Rabbit actually gave accolades to the very well considered and quite reasonably priced wine list (note that Mr. Rab is notoriously snobby and frugal all at once which makes for an impossible-to-please consumer). I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend this spot for dating, family-visitations, celebrations or girls’ nights. In other words, it’s a stylish choice for most occasions. 

Special thanks to Mr. Sister for picking up the cheque on this one, thus leaving us to bad-manner-ing-ly estimate that financials (2 shared apps, 4 mains, 2 shared desserts, 2 bottles of vino, 4 after-dinner-drinks) were $100 per person-ish including alcohol and tip.

www.globebistro.com 

Posted on December 9th, 2008 by rabbit
Filed under: Toronto, Restaurant Reviews