Caplansky’s, a self-described “dive bar deli,” has been has been getting crazy press since it opened in Toronto last summer…

Zane Caplansky’s claim to fame is that his small kitchen serves their own, house-made smoked meat. Deli lovers have been busting down the door to get these sammies since food critics, bloggers and deli afficionados started talking it up. In fact, the demand has been so great that Caplansky’s had to shut down for three days the week of our visit to make more meat.

 We arrived for lunch at around 1:30 on a Saturday. Caplansky’s has taken over the tiny kitchen at the Monarch Tavern, an “old man bar” at College and Clinton with a Playboy pinball machine and hockey memorabilia over the bar. The place was packed with everyone from old men (probably unsure what to make of the hipster invasion of their former hideout), to the aforementioned young hipster families with their squawking offspring (note: this place is family-friendly, the kids just add to the buzz). We had to wait about five minutes for a table, which gave us just enough time to fall in love (with the space… we’re already stuck with each other). 

Monarch’s barkeeps and Caplansky’s staff run different tills, so we first ordered pints of Steamwhistle and Keith’s Red to wash down the deli. Next we ordered one Caplansky’s combo (a sandwich with choice of soup or fries plus slaw and pickle) and another sandwich and a side of fries. Soups that day were borscht or pea and we went with the borscht. This proved the single best thing we ate at Caplansky’s — the soup was a rich red colour with lots of cabbage and succulent threads of smoked meat, all in a vinegar-y broth.* Joanne Kates** of the Globe and Mail found the soup over-meat-y and not-quite up to her Boba’s standards, but with no such sentimental prejudices we thought the soup rocked.

* I originally reported this meat as pork because its taste was so reminiscent of pulled pork, but “embee” on CH reminded me that although not kosher, Caplansky’s isn’t the place for pork lovers.

** http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/LAC.20081115.KATES15/TPStory/?query=zane+caplansky 

Rabbit doesn’t care for cole slaw, but I was actually digging Caplansky’s vinegar-y rendition.

Fries were mediocre, and next time we would do without — unless we were really pushing our caloric luck and went all out for the poutine (our neighbours had a hearty helping and we were jealous). We do note that others have consistently raved about the fries and I wonder whether we hit an off day?

OK – on to the sandwiches. Meat can be ordered up regular, fatty or lean. Mr. Rab went reg while I wanted lean (regular pictured first). Apparently this is not advised since you need some fat for taste, but it suited me just fine. The sandwiches arrived on rye bread with generous slices of meat and a basket full of mustards, including Caplansky’s own.

Here’s where the fun really started.  We found our first bite… disconcerting. This isn’t your typical smoked meat sammy. Handsliced, the meat has a texture and taste quite different from what we were anticipating. First, Caplansky’s smoked meat is spicy — loved that. Second, the hand-slicing gives it a different texture from the typical deli offering — we quickly warmed to this. Third, the taste of this meat is Montreal smoked crossed with Southern bbq (we immediately started talking about brisket at Lambert’s in Austin). Caplansky has a great product that is very much his own thing. The first bite of this sandwich isn’t just a “better” version of the smoked meat you’ve been eating all your life — it’s an innovation, an invention, a revelation. 

Do note that the house made mustard is very grain-y and dry, almost more like a horseradish than a mustard. We liked it best mixed with some garden-variety nuclear yellow. We wondered whether this mustard isn’t more just with the fatty corned beef in order to give it a bit more juice?

We’ve been talking deli all week chez nous, and we can’t wait to get back for that poutine, knishes, pea soup, and some smoked turkey.

www.caplanskys.com 

Posted on December 5th, 2008 by rabbit
Filed under: Toronto, Restaurant Reviews